Staining your deck in the fall can be an excellent choice, provided the weather conditions are right. Fall offers several advantages that can help you achieve a beautiful and long-lasting finish for your deck. Here’s why fall can be an ideal time for deck staining:
1. Optimal Temperatures
Moderate Temperatures: Fall typically brings moderate temperatures, which are ideal for staining. Most stains perform best when applied between 50°F and 85°F (10°C to 29°C). These conditions allow the stain to properly penetrate the wood and dry evenly without drying too quickly, which can happen during hot summer days.
Avoids Extreme Heat: Summer heat can cause the stain to dry too quickly, leading to uneven application, lap marks, and a less durable finish. In contrast, fall’s cooler temperatures slow down the drying process, allowing the stain to penetrate the wood fibers more effectively.
2. Lower Humidity Levels
Improved Drying Conditions: Fall typically has lower humidity levels compared to summer. High humidity can extend drying times, increase the risk of mildew growth, and prevent the stain from curing properly. Lower humidity in the fall helps the stain dry more evenly and adhere better to the wood.
Reduced Moisture Issues: With less chance of rain and dew in early fall, you have a better window for staining, reducing the risk of moisture interfering with the application process.
3. Less Direct Sunlight
Reduced UV Exposure: Direct sunlight and intense UV rays in summer can cause the stain to fade prematurely. Fall’s softer sunlight minimizes UV exposure during application, helping the stain to cure at a slower, more consistent rate for a stronger finish.
Avoids Overheating: The cooler temperatures also prevent the deck surface from overheating, which can otherwise lead to bubbling or improper absorption of the stain.
4. Less Pollen and Debris
Cleaner Surface: Fall typically has less airborne debris like pollen, which can settle on a freshly stained surface and create imperfections. With fewer leaves and particles floating around, you’re less likely to have contaminants landing on your wet stain.
Easier Surface Preparation: Fall’s cleaner air makes the deck easier to prep and keep clean during staining, leading to a smoother, more professional finish.
5. Preparation for Winter
Protects Against Winter Weather: Staining your deck in the fall helps protect it from the harsh winter conditions ahead, such as snow, ice, and freezing temperatures, which can cause wood to crack, warp, or deteriorate. A fresh coat of stain seals the wood, preventing moisture from penetrating and freezing inside the wood fibers.
Preserves the Wood: By staining in the fall, you enhance the deck’s durability, making it more resilient against the elements and reducing the need for more intensive maintenance in the spring.
6. Less Foot Traffic and Activity
Reduced Interruption: Fall often means fewer outdoor gatherings and less foot traffic on the deck, giving the stain time to dry and cure properly without interference. This helps avoid scuffs, smudges, or other damage to the freshly stained surface.
Easier Scheduling: Fall may also be a less busy time for professionals if you choose to hire a contractor, potentially allowing for quicker scheduling and completion of the project.
7. Enhanced Aesthetic Appeal
Great Timing for Visual Refresh: Staining in the fall can refresh the appearance of your deck, making it look great for any outdoor fall activities and setting it up to look fresh once spring arrives.
Tips for Staining Your Deck in the Fall:
Check the Weather Forecast: Ensure there are several dry days in a row without rain in the forecast. The stain needs at least 24 to 48 hours to dry and cure properly.
Prep the Deck: Clean the deck thoroughly before staining to remove dirt, mildew, and old stain residues. This will ensure the new stain adheres properly.
Choose the Right Stain: Opt for a high-quality stain suited for fall temperatures and conditions. Look for products that offer UV protection, water resistance, and mildew inhibitors.
Apply During Midday: Stain when the deck is dry and the sun is not too harsh, ideally late morning or early afternoon. This timing helps avoid early morning dew and cooler evening temperatures.
Conclusion
Staining your deck in the fall is a strategic choice that takes advantage of optimal weather conditions, prepares your deck for winter, and sets you up for success come spring. With proper planning and timing, you can achieve a beautiful, durable finish that enhances the look and longevity of your outdoor space.
The sun can have various effects on wood decks, both directly and indirectly, due to its exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation and heat. Here are some ways in which the sun can affect wood decks:
Fading: Prolonged exposure to sunlight can cause the color of wood decks to fade over time. UV radiation breaks down the pigments and natural oils in the wood, leading to a loss of color saturation and vibrancy. This is particularly noticeable in decks with darker stains or finishes.
Drying Out: Sunlight and heat can accelerate the drying process of wood, leading to moisture loss and potential drying out of the wood fibers. This can cause the wood to shrink, crack, and split, especially in hot and arid climates or during periods of prolonged drought.
Warping and Cupping: Uneven exposure to sunlight can cause wood decks to warp, cup, or twist as the surface layers of the wood expand and contract at different rates. This can result in uneven decking boards, gaps between boards, and an uneven surface texture.
Surface Degradation: UV radiation can degrade the surface of wood decks by breaking down the lignin and other natural components of the wood. This can result in surface checking, cracking, and weathering, giving the deck a rough, weathered appearance.
Mold and Mildew Growth: While sunlight can help inhibit the growth of mold and mildew on wood surfaces by drying out moisture, shaded areas of the deck may still be susceptible to fungal growth. These areas may retain moisture longer, leading to the development of mold, mildew, and algae.
Heat Retention: Wood decks exposed to direct sunlight can become hot to the touch, especially during the summer months. This can make the deck uncomfortable to walk on barefoot and can contribute to overheating of the surrounding indoor spaces if the deck is attached to a house.
To mitigate the effects of sun exposure on wood decks, consider taking the following preventive measures:
• Apply a protective sealant or wood finish with UV inhibitors to help protect the wood from UV radiation and moisture. • Provide shade over the deck with umbrellas, awnings, pergolas, or shade sails to reduce direct sunlight exposure. • Regularly clean and maintain the deck to remove dirt, debris, and organic matter that can promote mold and mildew growth. • Use a deck cooling system or cooling mat to reduce surface temperatures and make the deck more comfortable during hot weather. • Monitor the condition of the deck regularly and address any signs of damage or deterioration promptly to prevent further problems.
Choosing the right deck staining brushes for your deck can make a significant difference in the quality and efficiency of the staining process. Here are some types of brushes commonly used for deck staining:
Deck Stain Brushes:
Deck stain brushes are specifically designed for applying stain to large surface areas such as decks, fences, and siding.
These brushes typically have a wide, flat design with densely packed bristles that hold a large amount of stain and allow for quick and efficient application.
Look for brushes with synthetic bristles, such as nylon or polyester, which are durable and resistant to solvents commonly found in stains.
Deck Stain Pads:
Deck stain pads are similar to brushes but feature a flat, rectangular pad instead of bristles.
These pads are designed to hold a significant amount of stain and provide a smooth, even application on large deck surfaces.
Stain pads are often preferred for their ease of use and ability to cover large areas quickly, especially on flat or horizontal surfaces.
Deck Stain Applicator with Extension Pole:
Deck stain applicators consist of a brush or pad attached to a long handle or extension pole.
These applicators are ideal for reaching high or hard-to-access areas of the deck without the need for a ladder.
Look for applicators with adjustable or telescoping poles to customize the length for your specific needs.
Trim Brushes:
Trim brushes are smaller brushes with angled or tapered bristles, typically used for cutting in and detailing work around edges, corners, and tight spaces.
While not ideal for large deck surfaces, trim brushes can be useful for applying stain to railings, posts, and other intricate areas where precision is required.
Choose a trim brush with high-quality bristles that provide smooth and controlled application of stain.
Staining Mitts or Gloves:
Staining mitts or gloves are worn on the hand and can be used to apply stain to small or hard-to-reach areas of the deck.
These are convenient for touch-ups, spot treatments, or applying stain to areas where brushes or pads may be impractical.
Staining mitts or gloves are often made of absorbent materials such as microfiber or foam and can be disposed of or cleaned for reuse.
When selecting a brush for deck staining, consider factors such as the type of stain you’re using, the size and layout of your deck, and your personal preferences for application technique. Regardless of the brush you choose, proper preparation of the deck surface and careful application of the stain are essential for achieving a professional-looking finish.
The best stains for wood decks depend on factors such as the type of wood, desired appearance, level of protection needed, and environmental conditions. Here are some common types of stains and their characteristics:
Transparent Stains:
Transparent stains allow the natural grain and texture of the wood to show through while providing a subtle color enhancement and UV protection.
These stains are ideal for new or high-quality wood decks where the natural beauty of the wood is a priority.
Transparent stains may require more frequent reapplication than other types of stains, as they offer minimal protection against weathering and UV damage.
Semi-Transparent Stains:
Semi-transparent stains offer a balance between color enhancement and wood grain visibility, providing moderate coverage and UV protection.
These stains are suitable for moderately weathered wood decks that need both color enhancement and protection against sun damage and moisture.
Semi-transparent stains may require periodic maintenance and reapplication to maintain their appearance and protective qualities.
Semi-Solid Stains:
Semi-solid stains provide greater color coverage and opacity than transparent or semi-transparent stains, while still allowing some wood grain to show through.
These stains are suitable for weathered or imperfect wood decks that need moderate to heavy coverage and color enhancement.
Semi-solid stains offer better UV protection and durability than transparent or semi-transparent stains and may require less frequent reapplication.
Solid Stains:
Solid stains offer maximum color coverage and opacity, effectively hiding imperfections and providing a uniform appearance.
These stains are ideal for heavily weathered or damaged wood decks that need extensive coverage and protection.
Solid stains offer the highest level of UV protection and durability, making them suitable for harsh environmental conditions and high-traffic areas.
Solid stains typically require less frequent reapplication than transparent or semi-transparent stains due to their thicker film-forming properties.
When choosing a stain for your wood deck, consider factors such as the level of exposure to sunlight, moisture, and foot traffic, as well as your aesthetic preferences and maintenance capabilities. It’s also important to properly prepare the wood surface and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for application and maintenance to ensure optimal results and long-term durability.
Yes, wood rot can spread if the conditions that promote fungal growth and decay are present. Wood rot is caused by certain types of fungi that thrive in moist, damp environments and feed on the cellulose and lignin in wood. When wood is exposed to prolonged moisture and lacks adequate ventilation, it becomes susceptible to fungal colonization and decay.
Wood rot can spread in several ways:
Direct Contact: Fungi can spread from infected wood to adjacent healthy wood through direct contact. This can occur when fungal spores or mycelium (the vegetative part of the fungus) come into contact with untreated wood surfaces.
Moisture Transfer: Moisture is a critical factor in the growth and spread of wood rot fungi. If water is allowed to penetrate into the wood or accumulate on its surface, it creates ideal conditions for fungal growth. Water can also carry fungal spores from one area to another, facilitating the spread of rot.
Capillary Action: Wood fibers have a natural tendency to absorb moisture through capillary action, which can transport water and fungal spores deep into the interior of the wood. Once inside, the fungi can colonize and spread throughout the wood, leading to widespread decay.
Adjacent Materials: Fungal spores can also spread to nearby materials, such as drywall, insulation, or other organic matter, if they come into contact with infected wood. This can occur if wood rot is not properly contained and remediated, allowing the fungi to proliferate and spread to surrounding materials.
Structural Components: In structural applications, wood rot can compromise the integrity of load-bearing components such as joists, beams, and studs. If left untreated, rot can weaken these structural elements and pose safety hazards to buildings and occupants.
To prevent the spread of wood rot, it’s essential to address underlying moisture issues and provide adequate ventilation to keep wood surfaces dry. This may involve repairing leaks, improving drainage, sealing cracks and gaps, and ensuring proper airflow around wooden structures. Additionally, treating wood with fungicidal preservatives can help protect against fungal decay and inhibit the spread of rot. Regular inspection and maintenance of wood structures are also important to detect and address signs of rot before it spreads and causes extensive damage.
Yes, stain can rejuvenate wood decks by enhancing their appearance, restoring color, and providing protection against weathering and wear. Here are some ways in which stain rejuvenates wood decks:
Color Enhancement: Stain can restore or enhance the natural color of the wood, bringing out its beauty and richness. Whether you choose a clear stain to highlight the natural grain of the wood or a tinted stain to add color, the result can be a revitalized and refreshed appearance for your deck.
Uniformity: Over time, wood decks may develop uneven coloration or fading due to exposure to sunlight, moisture, and other environmental factors. Staining your deck can help to even out the color and create a more uniform appearance, giving your deck a fresh and cohesive look.
Protection: Stain provides a protective barrier that helps shield the wood from moisture, UV radiation, mold, mildew, and other forms of damage. By sealing the wood surface, stain helps to prevent cracking, splitting, warping, and decay, extending the lifespan of your deck and reducing the need for repairs or replacement.
Preservation: In addition to enhancing the appearance of your deck, stain helps to preserve the natural beauty and integrity of the wood. By penetrating into the wood fibers and forming a durable seal, stain helps to maintain the structural integrity and strength of the deck, ensuring its long-term durability and performance.
Enhanced Grain Definition: Stain can accentuate the natural grain and texture of the wood, adding depth and dimension to the appearance of your deck. This can create a more visually interesting and aesthetically pleasing surface that complements the overall design of your outdoor space.
Easy Application: Stain is relatively easy to apply to wood decks, whether using a brush, roller, or sprayer. With proper preparation and application techniques, staining your deck can be a straightforward and rewarding DIY project that can significantly improve the look and condition of your outdoor living area.
Versatility: Stain comes in a variety of colors, tones, and opacity levels, allowing you to customize the look of your deck to suit your personal preferences and style. Whether you prefer a natural, transparent finish or a bold, opaque color, there is a stain option available to achieve the desired effect.
Overall, staining your wood deck can be an effective way to rejuvenate its appearance, protect it from damage, and prolong its lifespan, allowing you to enjoy your outdoor living space to the fullest for years to come.
Yes, leaves can potentially cause damage to your wood deck if they are allowed to accumulate and remain on the surface for an extended period. Here are some ways in which leaves can impact your wood deck:
Moisture Retention: Leaves can trap moisture on the surface of your deck, especially if they are wet or if rainwater becomes trapped underneath them. This moisture can penetrate the wood and contribute to rot, decay, and mold growth over time.
Staining: Decomposing leaves contain tannins and other organic compounds that can leach onto the surface of your deck, causing stains and discoloration. This can detract from the appearance of your deck and require additional cleaning and maintenance to remove.
Mold and Mildew Growth: Moisture trapped beneath leaves can create ideal conditions for mold and mildew growth on your deck. This can lead to unsightly black or green patches of mold, as well as potential health risks and structural damage if left unchecked.
Surface Damage: As leaves decompose and break down, they can release acids and enzymes that may accelerate the degradation of the wood surface. This can result in surface damage, including staining, etching, and erosion of the wood fibers.
Slippery Surface: Wet leaves on your deck can create a slippery surface, increasing the risk of slips, trips, and falls, particularly during rainy or humid weather. This poses a safety hazard, especially if the deck is used frequently or by children and elderly individuals.
To prevent leaves from causing damage to your wood deck, consider the following preventive measures:
Regularly sweep or use a leaf blower to remove leaves, debris, and organic matter from your deck surface. This will help prevent moisture buildup and reduce the risk of mold and mildew growth.
Install gutters, downspouts, and drainage systems to direct rainwater away from your deck and prevent water from pooling or accumulating on the surface.
Trim back overhanging branches and vegetation to minimize the amount of leaves and debris that fall onto your deck. This will also help improve airflow and reduce moisture retention.
Consider applying a protective sealant or wood finish to your deck to help repel water, resist stains, and protect the wood from moisture damage.
Use mats or outdoor rugs in high-traffic areas of your deck to provide additional protection and prevent slips and falls on wet surfaces.
By taking proactive steps to remove leaves and mitigate potential damage, you can maintain the appearance, integrity, and safety of your wood deck for years to come.
Mold on your deck is not necessarily dangerous in the sense of being immediately harmful to your health, but it can pose certain risks and should be addressed to prevent potential issues. Here are some considerations regarding mold on your deck:
Allergens: Mold spores can be allergenic for some individuals, causing allergic reactions such as sneezing, coughing, itching, and respiratory symptoms. People with allergies or asthma may be more sensitive to mold exposure.
Slippery Surface: Mold growth on your deck can create a slippery surface, especially when wet. This increases the risk of slips, trips, and falls, which can result in injuries, particularly if the deck is used frequently or by children and elderly individuals.
Surface Damage: Over time, mold can cause surface damage to wood decks, especially if left untreated. Mold may penetrate the wood fibers, leading to staining, discoloration, and deterioration of the wood. This can weaken the structural integrity of the deck and require costly repairs or replacement.
Aesthetic Concerns: Mold growth on your deck can detract from its appearance and curb appeal. Stains, discoloration, and black or green patches of mold can make your deck look unsightly and unkempt.
Potential Health Risks: While most types of mold found on outdoor surfaces are not toxic, certain species of mold can produce mycotoxins that may pose health risks if inhaled or ingested. However, the risk of exposure to toxic mold is generally low in outdoor environments.
To address mold on your deck and mitigate potential risks, consider the following steps:
Regularly clean and maintain your deck to remove dirt, debris, and organic matter that can promote mold growth. Sweep or power wash your deck periodically to remove mold spores and surface buildup.
Use a mold-inhibiting cleaner or mildewcide solution to treat areas of mold growth on your deck. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for proper application and safety precautions.
Improve ventilation and airflow around your deck to reduce moisture accumulation, which can contribute to mold growth. Trim back vegetation, clear debris from drainage channels, and ensure proper water drainage away from the deck.
Consider applying a mold-resistant sealant or wood finish to your deck to help prevent mold growth and protect the wood from moisture and UV damage.
Address any underlying issues that may be contributing to mold growth, such as leaks, drainage problems, or excessive shade and moisture retention.
By taking proactive measures to address mold on your deck and prevent its recurrence, you can maintain a safe, attractive outdoor space for your enjoyment.
There’s no secret to deck maintenance – repair the deck, clean it and protect it. But learning tricks the pros use can make the job go faster and the results last longer. Here is how you go from old deck to new deck in 4 steps…
The damage was bad. The appearance was worse. The Johnsons to consider ripping up the entire deck and starting over.
Barbara and Phil Johnson, of Mobile, Alabama, faced the same problems that many other deck owners face. Over the years, the elements, kids and pets took a devastating toll on their backyard deck. The damage was bad. The appearance was worse. The Johnsons to consider ripping up the entire deck and starting over.
Before taking such a drastic step, they spoke with a construction company for advice. According to the contractor, the Johnsons’ deck was in better shape than most. “This area of the country is tough on decks,” he says. “I’m sometimes asked to replace pressure-treated decks that are less than eight years old.” He adds, “Most of these decks are victims of neglect. With regular maintenance, a deck will easily last for twice as long.” The good news is that most decks, like this one, can be rejuvenated for a lot less than the cost of replacement.
Following are some techniques you can use to give an old deck a new lease on life, or to help maintain the look of a new one. For this project, we enlisted George Graf, a lead carpenter with Mobile’s Lipford Construction, and John Starling, owner of John the Painter. Hiring pros is easy on the schedule but hard on the budget—the cost of repairing a 700-sq.-ft. deck is $700, or about $1 per square foot. Restoring a deck yourself will cost a third as much.
A deck rejuvenation project like this can be done in two days, but it’s best to spread the work over two weekends to ensure the wood is completely dry before you apply stain.
AFTER: Most decks can be rejuvenated for a lot less than the cost of replacement.
Step 1: Making Repairs
Begin by inspecting the entire deck. Pay special attention to any part of the deck that is in direct contact with the ground, such as the posts, stair stringers or joists that are at ground level. Graf uses a screwdriver to check for structural damage. “If you can sink the tip of a screwdriver into a post or joist, it means the you’ve got rot and it’s time for a major renovation,” Graf says.
Also, inspect the deck-to-house connection. “Screws and bolts can loosen and rust,” he says. “Without the proper use of spacers and flashing, moisture can cause your band joist to rot.”
Tighten the fasteners that attach the deck to the house, look for any missing, bent or rusted flashing and carefully inspect inside and out for any telltale black stains that suggest moisture is working its way into your home.
Next, look for any cosmetic damage. For example, tap down any popped nails or consider replacing them with screws. For the Johnsons’ deck, Graf used galvanized ring-shanked nails when he replaced a few damaged boards. “Screws don’t pop like nails, ” he says “but we want the new boards to match the rest of the deck.”
Tip: If you need to rip replacement decking to match existing boards, use a tablesaw. Ease the sawn edge using a router fitted with a ⅜-inch roundover bit.
Carefully inspect railings and decking for loose wood. “No one likes to catch a 2-in.-long splinter on the hand or foot,” Graf says.
Use a pry bar to pull damaged boards. Remove fasteners and lift the board straight up to avoid damaging adjacent boards.
Step 2: Cleaning the Surface
Here’s the bad news: Every deck should have an annual cleaning. Assuming they have been maintained regularly, most decks can be revived with just a deck cleaner. Some products, like Thompson’s Deck Wash ($10, 1 gal. covers 250 sq. ft.), you mix in a bucket and apply to the deck; others, like GE’s Weathermate ($30, 1 gal. covers 500 sq. ft.), come in containers with integral applicators that you hook up to a garden hose. Once on the deck, most still require a stiff-bristle brush and a lot of elbow grease to work the mixture into the wood.
Always wear eye protection and gloves when working with concentrated chemicals. You’ll also want to protect nearby plants. The level of plant protection depends on the type and concentration of the chemicals you choose. For weak solutions and “plant-friendly” cleaners, you may need to only mist the plants before and after using cleaning. Powerful deck restorers can burn leaves on contact; in that case you should cover nearby plants with plastic sheeting.
For tackling tough stains, use a pressure washer (about $70 a day), which is the best way to remove sun-damaged wood fibers and tackle scrub-resistant stains. Graf recommends using a fan-type nozzle instead of a pinpoint nozzle that can dig into the wood. For removing the mildew, Graf mixes his own cleaning solution (see “Choosing the Right Cleaner,” on the facing page), which he feeds into the intake hose on the washer.
Go over the deck with a stiff-bristle brush to work the cleaner into the wood fibers, and then rinse. The boards should be kept damp in order for the cleaning solution to work effectively. Allow the deck to dry thoroughly before staining.
Choosing the Right Cleaner There are dozens of deck-cleaning products on the market. Most contain one of the following four chemicals as their main ingredient. Each is effective for different types of stains.
Sodium hypochlorite: This chemical—chlorine bleach—is good for removing mildew but isn’t effective on dirt or other stains. So mix it with an ammonia-free detergent. Thoroughly rinse the deck after using this chemical because it can eat away at the wood, resulting in fuzzing and premature graying.
Sodium percarbonate: When mixed with water, this chemical forms hydrogen peroxide (an oxygen-based bleach) and sodium carbonate, which acts as a detergent. It is good for removing dirt, mildew and weathered wood.
Oxalic acid: This is effective in removing iron stains and the brown-black tannins that frequently occur with cedar and redwood decks. This acid is commonly found in deck brighteners. Oxalic acid isn’t effective against mildew, so you may want to use it after cleaning the deck with a bleach-based cleaner.
Sodium hydroxide: Also known as lye, this is the key ingredient in most finish lifters or removers. Don’t leave it on too long, or it can eat away at the wood.
Be very careful when working with any of these chemicals, especially when they’re in their most concentrated (premixed) form. Wear the proper safety equipment and follow the manufacturer’s directions to the letter. Rinse the surface thoroughly and allow it to dry before refinishing.
DIY CLEANER Here’s a deck cleaner you can make yourself. Recommended by the U.S. Department of Agriculture Forest Products Laboratory, it’s good for mildew and dirt.
• 1 qt. sodium hypochlorite solution (household bleach) • ⅓ cup powdered laundry detergent • 3 qts. warm water
In a 5-gal. plastic bucket, add the bleach and detergent to the water, then brush the cleaner onto the deck. Rinse thoroughly before applying a finish.
Caution: Do not use a detergent that contains ammonia. Ammonia and bleach react to form a poisonous gas.
Trim the replacement boards with a circular saw. Using adjacent boards as a cutting guide is faster and more accurate than measuring.
Step 3: Applying the Stain
Once all of the repairs have been made and the deck is clean, it’s time to apply a protective finish. Clear finishes and transparent stains are fine for new wood, but for older decks, Starling recommends using a semitransparent stain.
“The grain still shows through, but the pigment gives the old wood a clean, uniform color and helps the new wood blend in,” he says. The pigment also provides extra protection from the damaging effects of the sun and will last longer than clear finishes. Unlike paint, stain is absorbed by the wood and does not form a film on its surface, so it will not peel or chip.
Starling uses a sprayer and 2-in. brush to apply the stain. “Spraying is fast, and puts more stain on the wood than rolling or brushing,” Starling says. Most painters and homeowners are better off spraying on a generous coat of stain and then following up with a roller or brush to spread out puddles and work the finish into the wood. Starling, however, uses a modified technique. “Rollers push the stain off the wood and down the cracks,” he says. “I don’t get paid to paint dirt beneath the deck.” Starling sprays on a light coat, most of which is quickly absorbed into the wood. He uses the brush to remove puddles. “If the stain’s too thick, it dries blotchy,” he explains. Starling recycles the excess stain for use on exposed end grain.
Starling recommends starting at an inside corner and working out, applying the stain parallel to the deck boards. To avoid staining the nearby brick, he uses a small piece of cardboard as a spray shield; the brush provides even more control around deck railings and posts.
This 700-sq.-ft. deck required about 5 gal. of stain — almost twice as much as the estimates indicated on the can. Explains Starling, “Old wood can get thirsty. On some decks, I’ll need to apply two or three coats of stain in order to get a uniform finish.”
Subsequent coats should be applied while the first coat is still wet or they will not be absorbed into the wood. Stain won’t peel, but it can wear away, especially in high-traffic areas. Starling recommends applying a fresh coat every other year. A clear water repellent can be applied between stainings for extra protection.
Mesh filters (about $1 each) catch any particles that could wind up clogging the nozzle on the washer.
Step 4: Redoing a Railing
Because the original railing on their deck was in such bad shape, the Johnsons decided to replace it with a maintenance-free railing system. They chose Fiberon, a vinyl-coated wood-plastic composite. It’s available in premade panels or as kits. The Johnsons liked the contrast the white railing offered.
Tip: After cutting the end post flush with the deck using a reciprocating saw, remove the old railing in sections.
For an existing deck or concrete slab, Fiberon makes a surface-mount bracket, as shown below. For new decks, the manufacturer recommends installing the posts before the decking and using metal brackets that attach to the joists. To conceal any minor gaps where the balusters meet the bottom rail, Graf recommends using a mildew-resistant acrylic caulk.
